| The owners
of the Production Units set quality standards
and designers have very little influence in
quality issues. Production Units generally
only produce one quality. If these standards
are not up to your needs, it's the wrong Unit
for you. "Designer quality" can
only be achieved if the machinist is paid
for her time, not by the item. Piece
work or sew through (the more you make, the
more you earn) kills quality.
Units that pay their staff a weekly wage
regardless of numbers produced will always
produce a more acceptable quality.
Question:
I am a designer specialising in evening
wear and have recently delivered an order
to a local retailer who has complained that
the garments are too small to sell. I produce
everything in-house with 3 machinists, a
presser and a cutter and cannot understand
why these
garments are small.
Answer:
This could be one of 3 things: a pattern
problem, a fabric problem or a manufacturing
problem.
Check the pattern thoroughly; make sure
the measurements are correct.
Check the fabric yourself for shrinkage;
ask the fabric agents for shrinkage details.
Check the seam allowance taken by the machinists.
If the garments are a full size too small,
in an emergency, you could re-size the garments
down and re-cut the larger size.
Our
confidential advice service will help you
to get the best from your indoor production.
Question:
I have just received a delivery of hand
knit sweaters from my knitter and the colour
combinations are not what we discussed.
What can I do now?
Answer:
This is more of a communication problem
than a quality issue!
Did you confirm your discussion about colour
combinations in writing? Probably not. All
technical arrangements must be confirmed
in writing. Fax or email is ideal. It will
safeguard you against things like this happening
again.
Our
confidential advice service will help you
to communicate with your suppliers in a
safe manner.
Question:
I visited the Unit producing my first export
order during manufacture and everything
looked fine. When I returned to pick up
and pay for my finished order, the garments
were creased and lacked "hanger appeal."
The Unit Manager said they had pressed them
twice and would not touch them again. What
can I do?
Answer:
It is imperative for at least one sample
to be made by the Production Unit from the
correct fabric. This will establish exactly
how the fabric will react to the manufacturing
process.
This does sound like a pressing problem
or perhaps a fabric problem.
Pressing has 3 elements: heat, steam and
pressure. It is the right combination of
these that gives a crisp finish.
If the fabric has a textured finished like
velvet or a very smooth finish like crepe
de chine, the fabric agent should have details
of recommended levels for the 'pressing
elements.'
If the presser in the Unit is paid per
garment pressed, this will always lead to
a
compromise on quality.
Our
confidentiall advice service will help you
to gain more understanding of technical
problems.
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